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Sustainability of marine ingredients in cosmetics questioned

Sustainability of marine ingredients in cosmetics questioned
The cosmetics industry is increasingly turning to the sea and oceans in the search for new ingredients. “Sea materials from coastal plants, seaweeds, algae, and sea minerals are especially favoured by natural cosmetic companies seeking new sources of innovation. Sea algae, rich in vitamins and minerals, are also becoming a common source of anti-ageing actives,” says market research firm Organic Monitor.
Simultaneously, high demand for marine ingredients is increasing the number of raw material suppliers specialising in such products. The Norwegian firm Aqua Bio Technology, for instance, has developed a novel range of ingredients derived from salmon hatcheries, whilst US-based Heliae is using new strains of algae. Other companies like Lipotec and BiotechMarine are using biotechnology to harvest actives from marine sources.
However, the popularity of marine ingredients is leading to concerns that large-scale sourcing, or non-sustainable production methods, could disrupt marine ecosystems already under strain, due to over-fishing and climate change.
With the cosmetics industry having an insatiable appetite for novel ingredients, Organic Monitor expects marine sourcing to increase in the coming years. The challenge is to combine innovation with sustainability. “In this respect, natural cosmetic firms could lead the way since many have sustainable sourcing embedded in their corporate DNA,” says the market research firm.
There are signs this development is already occurring. The German company OceanBasis has set up a sustainable aquaculture farm in the Baltic Sea to produce algae for its natural cosmetics. The certified farm is providing a sustainable source of active ingredients for its Oceanwell range.
Sustainable sourcing of marine ingredients will be featured in the European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit taking place in Paris on 21-23rd November, 2013.
© 2012 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com

The cosmetics industry is increasingly turning to the sea and oceans in the search for new ingredients. “Sea materials from coastal plants, seaweeds, algae, and sea minerals are especially favoured by natural cosmetic companies seeking new sources of innovation. Sea algae, rich in vitamins and minerals, are also becoming a common source of anti-ageing actives,” says market research firm Organic Monitor.

Simultaneously, high demand for marine ingredients is increasing the number of raw material suppliers specialising in such products. The Norwegian firm Aqua Bio Technology, for instance, has developed a novel range of ingredients derived from salmon hatcheries, whilst US-based Heliae is using new strains of algae. Other companies like Lipotec and BiotechMarine are using biotechnology to harvest actives from marine sources.

However, the popularity of marine ingredients is leading to concerns that large-scale sourcing, or non-sustainable production methods, could disrupt marine ecosystems already under strain, due to over-fishing and climate change.

With the cosmetics industry having an insatiable appetite for novel ingredients, Organic Monitor expects marine sourcing to increase in the coming years. The challenge is to combine innovation with sustainability. “In this respect, natural cosmetic firms could lead the way since many have sustainable sourcing embedded in their corporate DNA,” says the market research firm.

There are signs this development is already occurring. The German company OceanBasis has set up a sustainable aquaculture farm in the Baltic Sea to produce algae for its natural cosmetics. The certified farm is providing a sustainable source of active ingredients for its Oceanwell range.

Sustainable sourcing of marine ingredients will be featured in the European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit taking place in Paris on 21-23rd November, 2013.

© 2012 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com


ETHICS IN BUSINESS – AUSZEICHNUNG FÜR PHARMOS NATUR

Als erstes Naturkosmetikunternehmen wurde Pharmos Natur mit dem Gütesiegel „Ethics in Business“ ausgezeichnet.

Margot-Esser-Paul-Greineder1

Für mehr Fairness in der Wirtschaft und mehr unternehmerische Verantwortung: Das Gütesiegel Ethics in Business® (EIB) wurde vom Institut für Wirtschaftsethik der Universität St. Gallen unter der Leitung von Prof. Dr. Thomas Beschorner entwickelt und versteht sich als „Wirtschaftinitiative für Mittelständler“, die bereits nach ethischen Aspekten handeln und sich stetig weiter entwickeln wollen. Dabei werden die Bereiche „Unternehmenswerte und Führung”, „Werteorientierte Personalarbeit”, „Engagement im gesellschaftlichen Umfeld”, „Umweltschutz”, „Verantwortung in der Lieferkette” und „Produktverantwortung” ausführlich analysiert und bewertet – als Voraussetzung für die Auszeichnung.Nach bestandener Analyse und umfassender Befragung durch das Institut für Wirtschaftsethik bezüglich der bestehenden ethischen Standards sowie fairen, verantwortungsvollen und nachhaltigen Handelns im Unternehmen, wurde PHARMOS NATUR bereits im ersten Anlauf in die „EIB-Gilde“ aufgenommen.

Ihre unternehmerische Verantwortung beschreiben Unternehmensgründerin Margot Esser und Geschäftsführer Paul Greineder: „Nur wer nachhaltig wirtschaftet, nimmt gesellschaftliche Verantwortung wahr, auch über das unmittelbare Geschäft hinaus. Wir sind davon überzeugt, dass Reichtum mehr als Geld ist, und nach dieser Überzeugung handeln wir. Seit der Firmengründung ist deshalb auch soziales Engagement für uns ein wichtiges und förderungswürdiges Anliegen.“

biorama.at - 2 Jul, 2012 - Nina Jaksch Kosmetik


Aftershaves für Männer bergen oft Gefahren für die Gesundheit

Düsseldorf.   Zehn Rasierwasser für Männer hat das Magazin Öko-Test unter die Lupe genommen. Das Ergebnis ist ganz und gar nicht dufte: Viele der Aftershaves enthalten gefährliche Inhaltsstoffe, die die Haut durchlässiger für Fremdstoffe machen, die Leber schädigen können und häufig Allergien auslösen.

Aftershave.jpg.jpeg

Aftershaves präsentieren sich auf dem Kosmetikmarkt verwegen - in erster Linie sind aber ihre Inhaltsstoffe gefährlich.

Mit Namen wie 'Dangerous Man' oder 'Intense Touch' präsentieren sich Aftershaves auf dem Kosmetikmarkt. Doch 'dangerous', also gefährlich, sind eher die Inhaltsstoffe und intensiv die Gefahren für die Gesundheit

Das Verbrauchermagazin Öko-Test hat jetzt zehn Rasierwasser genauer unter die Lupe genommen. Davon enthalten die meisten so genannte PEG-Derivate. Eingesetzt werden sie als Emulgatoren, die die wässrigen und öligen Bestandteile verbinden, können sie die Haut durchlässiger für Fremdstoffe machen.

Für die männlichen Duftmischungen setzen viele Hersteller auf künstliche Moschus-Verbindungen und die verwandte Substanz Cashmeran. Diese Stoffe sind nicht verboten, wenn sie von den Herstellern als Parfüm oder Aroma deklariert werden. Doch sie können sich im Körper anreichern und die Leber schädigen.

Häufig Allergien

Darüber hinaus enthält die Hälfte der geprüften Produkte Duftstoffe, die häufig Allergien auslösen. Und vereinzelt zeigen sich erhöhte Konzentrationen von Diethylphtalat, das in Verdacht steht, hormonähnlich zu wirken.

Ganz bedenkenlos kann das mit der Testnote 'sehr gut' bewertete Aftershave 'Wild Life For Men' von i+m und das Rasierwasser von Weleda verwendet werden. Bei beiden handelt es sich um zertifizierte Naturkosmetik. Von den konventionell hergestellten Marken erreicht lediglich das 'Old Spice Original' Aftershave von ProcterundGamble noch die Note 'befriedigend'.

'Bleu Du Chanel', das Aftershave-Lotion von Chanel, wird gerade noch mit 'mangelhaft' und alle restlichen Produkte nur noch mit 'ungnügend' bewertet. Unter ihnen auch die Aftershave-Lotionen 'Braukmann Evulotion' von Hildegard Braukmann und 'Tabac Original' von Mäurer und Wirtz.

Derwesten.de 11.05.2012 | 11:45 Uhr (mp/caha)


Cosmetics escape laws on organic labelling

CONSUMERS are being duped into buying cosmetics promoted as organic despite many products not being certified by any of the recognised organic groups in Australia and with some not even containing natural ingredients.
The organic food market has been booming in the past 20 years. The most recent figures show it has grown from a retail value of $28 million in 1990 to $947 million in 2010.
But while consumers can be confident that almost all the food products that are labelled organic on supermarket shelves meet stringent requirements, the same does not apply for the burgeoning organic cosmetics market.
Advertisement: Story continues below
Andrew Monk, the convener of standards at Biological Farmers of Australia, said the certification of organic food was now at a point where consumers could be guaranteed they were buying genuine organic.
''But we are at least two or three years away from that with cosmetics, which is still a grey area,'' he said.
Dr Monk said there were shampoos that claimed to be organic but were lucky to contain any natural products.
''They might use the word organic in their name, but then only contain a tiny bit of aloe vera,'' he said.
The Biological Farmers of Australia's regulatory arm, Australian Certified Organic, is the country's largest certifier of organic products and is behind the ''bud'' logo found on about 80 per cent of organic food and beverage products sold in stores.
Coles stocks 540 organic products, including 170 of its own brand, carrying the bud logo while Woolworths stocks 402 organic food products, including 289 in its private label range. Their product ranges have been increasing each year.
''We think it is pretty much as good as it is going to get when it comes to food labelling,'' Dr Monk said.
Grace Culhaci, owner of the Sydney company Pure & Green Organics, a certified organic skincare brand, said consumers were increasingly wanting to use organic cosmetics but could be misled by labelling.
Ms Culhaci said Australian organic cosmetics must contain a minimum of 95 per cent organic ingredients and must be certified by a government-approved body but the same strict conditions do not apply to imports.
She said one brand, Dr Organic from Britain, now had a large presence in Australia but many of its products contained very few organic ingredients, yet its name suggested that it was a legitimate organic brand.
''If 1 per cent of the product is organic … then that really is greenwashing,'' Ms Culhaci said.
Carla Oates, Biological Farmers of Australia's spokeswoman on cosmetics who also owns her own organic skincare range, said organic manufacturers invested a lot of money in developing their products but had to compete against cheap imitations.
''Regulations are really loose around labelling of cosmetics and I really don't think it is fair,'' she said. ''Manufacturers spend a lot of time and money formulating their products but then they are sold next to something that is much cheaper, which is false marketing because they are not what consumers expect them to be.''
Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/beauty/cosmetics-escape-laws-on-organic-labelling-20120330-1w3io.html#ixzz1sCkLyYfT

CONSUMERS are being duped into buying cosmetics promoted as organic despite many products not being certified by any of the recognised organic groups in Australia and with some not even containing natural ingredients.

The organic food market has been booming in the past 20 years. The most recent figures show it has grown from a retail value of $28 million in 1990 to $947 million in 2010.

But while consumers can be confident that almost all the food products that are labelled organic on supermarket shelves meet stringent requirements, the same does not apply for the burgeoning organic cosmetics market.

Andrew Monk, the convener of standards at Biological Farmers of Australia, said the certification of organic food was now at a point where consumers could be guaranteed they were buying genuine organic. ''But we are at least two or three years away from that with cosmetics, which is still a grey area,'' he said. Dr Monk said there were shampoos that claimed to be organic but were lucky to contain any natural products. ''They might use the word organic in their name, but then only contain a tiny bit of aloe vera,'' he said.

The Biological Farmers of Australia's regulatory arm, Australian Certified Organic, is the country's largest certifier of organic products and is behind the ''bud'' logo found on about 80 per cent of organic food and beverage products sold in stores. Coles stocks 540 organic products, including 170 of its own brand, carrying the bud logo while Woolworths stocks 402 organic food products, including 289 in its private label range. Their product ranges have been increasing each year.

''We think it is pretty much as good as it is going to get when it comes to food labelling,'' Dr Monk said. Grace Culhaci, owner of the Sydney company Pure & Green Organics, a certified organic skincare brand, said consumers were increasingly wanting to use organic cosmetics but could be misled by labeling. Ms Culhaci said Australian organic cosmetics must contain a minimum of 95 per cent organic ingredients and must be certified by a government-approved body but the same strict conditions do not apply to imports.

She said one brand, Dr Organic from Britain, now had a large presence in Australia but many of its products contained very few organic ingredients, yet its name suggested that it was a legitimate organic brand. ''If 1 per cent of the product is organic … then that really is greenwashing,'' Ms Culhaci said.

Carla Oates, Biological Farmers of Australia's spokeswoman on cosmetics who also owns her own organic skincare range, said organic manufacturers invested a lot of money in developing their products but had to compete against cheap imitations. ''Regulations are really loose around labelling of cosmetics and I really don't think it is fair,'' she said. ''Manufacturers spend a lot of time and money formulating their products but then they are sold next to something that is much cheaper, which is false marketing because they are not what consumers expect them to be.''

March 31, 2012, Sydney Morning Herald - ALEXANDRA SMITH


Naturkosmetik: Die Tricks der Hersteller und was tatsächlich drinsteckt

Neben Lebensmittel- und Textilherstellern ist seit geraumer Zeit auch die Kosmetikindustrie auf den Bio-Trend aufmerksam geworden. Grüne Kosmetik hat in vielen Badezimmern und Handtaschen mittlerweile einen festen Platz. Doch leider haben die Produkte mit „natürlich" oftmals so viel zu tun, wie die Haute Cuisine mit einer Frittenbude. Wir verraten Ihnen, wie Verbraucher bewusst getäuscht werden und was wirklich in so mancher grünen Mogelpackung steckt. Im Kampf gegen Falten, Altersflecken und Augenringe hat die herkömmliche Kosmetik in den letzten Jahren einen ernstzunehmenden Konkurrenten bekommen. Neben Lebensmittel- und Textilherstellern ist seit geraumer Zeit auch die Kosmetikindustrie auf den Bio-Trend aufmerksam geworden. Grüne Kosmetik hat in vielen Badezimmern und Handtaschen mittlerweile einen festen Platz. Vieles, was die Tierwelt hergibt und so gut wie alles, was die Pflanzenwelt zu bieten hat, wird mittlerweile zermahlen, ausgepresst oder extrahiert, in Döschen, Tiegel und Tuben gefüllt und schließlich als Naturkosmetik verkauft. Weniger appetitliche Dinge nicht ausgenommen. Oder finden Sie, dass Stutenmilch-Bodylotion verlockend klingt?

Der Name ist nicht zwingend Programm

Sind natürliche Inhaltsstoffe Bestandteil eines Produkts, bedeutet das nicht zwingend, dass ansonsten keinerlei synthetische Zusätze vorhanden sind. Hinter der natürlich anmutenden Fassade verbirgt sich oft nur eine Mini-Dosis Natur. Aber wer würde schon vermuten, dass er sich mit einer „Avocado-Trauben-Nachtpflege" keine reichhaltige Creme aus natürlichem Avocado-Öl und echten Trauben, sondern aus Erdöl gewonnenes Paraffin und ein entfernt nach Traube riechendes, künstliches Aroma ins Gesicht reibt? Erst kürzlich bestätigte das Verbrauchermagazin „Öko-Test", dass zahlreiche Naturkosmetika nur dem Anschein nach aus natürlichen Inhaltstoffen bestehen: In 34 analysierten Proben befanden sich zwischen 15 und 60 Prozent chemische und künstliche Zutaten. Viele davon gelten als umstritten oder sogar bedenklich. Wie kann das möglich sein?

Der Trick heißt Greenwashing

Greenwashing bedeutet, dass einem Unternehmen und/oder seinen Produkten durch PR-Methoden ein umweltbewusstes, verantwortungsvolles und auf Natürlichkeit bedachtes Image verpasst wird. Dass es der Industrie überhaupt möglich ist, Pseudo-Naturkosmetika zu vermarkten, liegt vor allem daran, dass der Begriff „Naturkosmetik" rechtlich nicht geschützt ist.

Zwar gibt es laut Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eine freiwillige Vereinbarung, die besagt, dass diese nur aus Tieren, Pflanzen und Mineralien hergestellt werden darf und zudem die Verwendung von Konservierungsstoffen bei der Herstellung von Naturkosmetik beschränkt. Das Problem ist aber: Kontrollen gibt es keine. Auch internationale Qualitätsstandards sucht man in der Branche vergeblich. Im Prinzip kann also jeder Hersteller, der ein Stück vom Bio-Kuchen abhaben will, seine Produkte als Naturkosmetik bezeichnen. Dass der Schwindel mit vermeintlich grüner Kosmetik so gut funktioniert, liegt vor allem an dem dichten Dschungel aus Inhaltsstoffen, in dem man sich ohne ein abgeschlossenes Chemiestudium kaum zurechtfindet. Doch wir haben ein paar Tipps, wie Sie sich leichter zurechtfinden:

Etikettenschwindel durchschauen

Nur weil auf der Verpackung der Wildrosen-Tagescreme „mit Rosenöl" steht, heißt das nicht, dass der wertvolle Naturstoff einen erwähnenswerten Anteil an der Creme hat. Laut EU-Kosmetik-Richtlinie müssen die Inhaltsstoffe auf der Verpackung in absteigender Reihenfolge ihrer Konzentration aufgelistet werden. Das heißt: Je weiter vorne Rosenöl auf der Liste steht, desto größer auch sein Mengenanteil. Je weiter hinten, desto geringer ist er. Sind Inhaltsstoffe zu weniger als einem Prozent enthalten, dürfen sie am Ende in ungeordneter Reihenfolge aufgelistet werden. Dann können Sie getrost von weniger als einem Hauch Rosenöl in der Creme ausgehen.

(c) Yahoo! Lifestyle 22.03.2012 - Stefi Camden

Neben Lebensmittel- und Textilherstellern ist seit geraumer Zeit auch die Kosmetikindustrie auf den Bio-Trend aufmerksam geworden. Grüne Kosmetik hat in vielen Badezimmern und Handtaschen mittlerweile einen festen Platz.
Doch leider haben die Produkte mit „natürlich" oftmals so viel zu tun, wie die Haute Cuisine mit einer Frittenbude. Wir verraten Ihnen, wie Verbraucher bewusst getäuscht werden und was wirklich in so mancher grünen Mogelpackung steckt.
Im Kampf gegen Falten, Altersflecken und Augenringe hat die herkömmliche Kosmetik in den letzten Jahren einen ernstzunehmenden Konkurrenten bekommen.
Vieles, was die Tierwelt hergibt und so gut wie alles, was die Pflanzenwelt zu bieten hat, wird mittlerweile zermahlen, ausgepresst oder extrahiert, in Döschen, Tiegel und Tuben gefüllt und schließlich als Naturkosmetik verkauft. Weniger appetitliche Dinge nicht ausgenommen. Oder finden Sie, dass Stutenmilch-Bodylotion verlockend klingtNeben Lebensmittel- und Textilherstellern ist seit geraumer Zeit auch die Kosmetikindustrie auf den Bio-Trend aufmerksam geworden. Grüne Kosmetik hat in vielen Badezimmern und Handtaschen mittlerweile einen festen P

Lipsticks, Perfumes May Be Hazardous to Health

Beware of lipstick-stained lips before puckering up this Valentine’s Day. They could be covered in lead.

Reuters first reported that a new study conducted by the FDA found that 400 lipsticks on the market tested positive for lead, according to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a coalition that advocates for safer cosmetics and hygiene products.
Maybelline Color Sensation by L’Oreal USA was the worst-offending lipstick of the group tested, the Campaign said. It contained more than 275 times the amount of lead that was found in the least-contaminated product.
Children’s products in the U.S. cannot contain more than 100 parts per million of lead. The highest offending lipstick contained 7.19 parts per million, the group said.
Oddly, the least contaminated was also the least expensive: Wet & Wild Mega Mixers Lip Balm. This just shows that cost is not a factor in lead levels, said Stacy Malkan, co-founder of Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
“There is no safe level of lead exposure,” Malkan told ABCNews.com. “It builds up in the body over time. A little bit every day is adding up and staying with you.”
Malkan said women use an average of 12 cosmetic and hygiene products per day.
Lead is a poisonous metal, and it was banned from paint products in the U.S. in 1978. The element is particularly dangerous to young children because it can cause blood and brain disorders in developing bodies.
There are no FDA standards in regulating the amount of chemicals in products, said Malkan. Companies don’t even need to know the chemicals that they are putting in their products.
“When these companies are asked about these chemicals, they argue, ‘it’s legal, so it’s OK,’” said Malkan. “That’s why we’re calling for the FDA to set a standard and give guidance to these companies for the best manufacturing practices.”
There is no safe level of lead for children, according to the CDC. The government agency issued a report that implored companies to keep lead out of their products to prevent exposure to pregnant women and children.
But the FDA seems to disagree. The government agency told Reuters in a statement, “The FDA did not find high levels of lead in lipstick. We developed and tested a method for measuring lead in lipstick and did not find levels that would raise health concerns.”
Lipstick is only the latest cosmetic to raise red flags. Kim Anderson, executive director of Ava Anderson Non-Toxic, a cosmetic line of chemical-free products, said customers should shy away from any product that lists “fragrance” as an ingredient.
“If they’re using the word fragrance, that company could be hiding up to 600 chemicals under that word,” said Anderson, who advocates for safer cosmetic regulations. “Seventy-five percent of the time, fragrances contain phthalates, a known-carcinogen that causes reproductive issues in the body.”
Even perfumes are coming under fire. A proposed bill in New Hampshire would prohibit state employees from spritzing on perfume or cologne before heading to work. The reason? For some people, these fragrances can cause severe allergic reactions. Interestingly, the federal government’s Centers for Disease Control and Prevention headquarters enacted a policy in Spring, 2010, which banned employees from wearing fragrances, as well.
“We support such a ban,” said Malkan. “As we see more perfumes, we see more people who are sensitive to the fragrances, that can cause headaches, breathing difficulties and asthma. The fact that the CDC has a fragrance-free policy should be an indicator of something.”
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is launching the Kiss Lead Goodbye contest Tuesday, when women are encouraged to submit video submissions to hear what they have to say to cosmetic giants that put lead in their products. Learn more at www.SafeCosmetics.org/kissleadgoodbye

Beware of lipstick-stained lips before puckering up this Valentine’s Day. They could be covered in lead.

Reuters first reported that a new study conducted by the FDA found that 400 lipsticks on the market tested positive for lead, according to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a coalition that advocates for safer cosmetics and hygiene products.

Maybelline Color Sensation by L’Oreal USA was the worst-offending lipstick of the group tested, the Campaign said. It contained more than 275 times the amount of lead that was found in the least-contaminated product.

Children’s products in the U.S. cannot contain more than 100 parts per million of lead. The highest offending lipstick contained 7.19 parts per million, the group said.

Oddly, the least contaminated was also the least expensive: Wet & Wild Mega Mixers Lip Balm. This just shows that cost is not a factor in lead levels, said Stacy Malkan, co-founder of Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

“There is no safe level of lead exposure,” Malkan told ABCNews.com. “It builds up in the body over time. A little bit every day is adding up and staying with you.”

Malkan said women use an average of 12 cosmetic and hygiene products per day.

Lead is a poisonous metal, and it was banned from paint products in the U.S. in 1978. The element is particularly dangerous to young children because it can cause blood and brain disorders in developing bodies.

There are no FDA standards in regulating the amount of chemicals in products, said Malkan. Companies don’t even need to know the chemicals that they are putting in their products.

“When these companies are asked about these chemicals, they argue, ‘it’s legal, so it’s OK,’” said Malkan. “That’s why we’re calling for the FDA to set a standard and give guidance to these companies for the best manufacturing practices.”

There is no safe level of lead for children, according to the CDC. The government agency issued a report that implored companies to keep lead out of their products to prevent exposure to pregnant women and children.

But the FDA seems to disagree. The government agency told Reuters in a statement, “The FDA did not find high levels of lead in lipstick. We developed and tested a method for measuring lead in lipstick and did not find levels that would raise health concerns.”

Lipstick is only the latest cosmetic to raise red flags. Kim Anderson, executive director of Ava Anderson Non-Toxic, a cosmetic line of chemical-free products, said customers should shy away from any product that lists “fragrance” as an ingredient.

“If they’re using the word fragrance, that company could be hiding up to 600 chemicals under that word,” said Anderson, who advocates for safer cosmetic regulations. “Seventy-five percent of the time, fragrances contain phthalates, a known-carcinogen that causes reproductive issues in the body.”

Even perfumes are coming under fire. A proposed bill in New Hampshire would prohibit state employees from spritzing on perfume or cologne before heading to work. The reason? For some people, these fragrances can cause severe allergic reactions. Interestingly, the federal government’s Centers for Disease Control and Prevention headquarters enacted a policy in Spring, 2010, which banned employees from wearing fragrances, as well.

“We support such a ban,” said Malkan. “As we see more perfumes, we see more people who are sensitive to the fragrances, that can cause headaches, breathing difficulties and asthma. The fact that the CDC has a fragrance-free policy should be an indicator of something.”

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is launching the Kiss Lead Goodbye contest Tuesday, when women are encouraged to submit video submissions to hear what they have to say to cosmetic giants that put lead in their products. Learn more at www.SafeCosmetics.org/kissleadgoodbye

By Mikaela Conley @mikaelaconley Feb 14, 2012 1:34pm ABC News (blog)


I ditched my deodorant...

...to lower risk of breast cancer

By cancer specialist 
Philippa Darbre

MOST women have been using make-up and deodorant for years without a second thought. But new research might make you think twice.

Parabens, a chemical used in cosmetics, toiletries and some food products to prolong shelf-life, has been found in tumours taken from breast cancer patients.

Dr Philippa Darbre, reader in oncology at the University of Reading, has spent years studying parabens and how they get into the body. She says: "Parabens can mimic the action of oestrogen and there is a link between oestrogen and breast cancer." Specialist ... Philippa Darbre

Here, she tells LYNSEY HAYWOOD why she stopped using deodorant 15 years ago. THE rise in breast cancer has turned it into the most common cancer in women.

Most studies conclude the majority of cases are environmental in origin — but the main underlying environmental cause remains to be identified.

Smoking, diet, alcohol and radiation have all been identified as risk factors but lifetime exposure to oestrogen is regarded as one of the biggest influences.

There are lots of environmental chemical compounds that mimic the action of oestrogen and as these have been found in the breast, there have been questions about their involvement in the rising incidence of breast cancer.

One of these chemicals is parabens. When I first looked into this issue I was concerned about them being applied to the underarm and breast area because from there, they might be absorbed through the skin into underlying areas of the breast. This also concerned me because more than half of breast cancers start in that same region of the breast.

In the new study I was involved in — published last week — we found parabens in the breast tissue of every woman examined and we did indeed find a bit more of one type of paraben, propylparaben, in the underarm region than inner regions of the breast.

But what this new study also found is that women who hadn't ever used underarm deodorant for years still had parabens in the samples from their breast tissue. This means that the parabens are getting into the body from elsewhere.

Hundreds of everyday products contain parabens — make-up, toothpaste, moisturisers, bubble bath...

I will always be a bit ambivalent about hounding a single chemical. I did not open up my bathroom cabinet and consciously throw out anything that contained parabens.

Even if they were removed from all products, I suspect that women would still get breast cancer. Alone, this wouldn't solve the problem.

There are lots of different chemicals in all of these products and by them being used every day, they find their way into our bodies.

I stopped using underarm cosmetics about 15 years ago and I haven't looked back since. I use very few personal care products anyway. I tend to use soap and water to wash under my arms and try to choose products from more organic, cosmetic producers.

What we couldn't identify in the study is where the parabens were coming from. We did not ask women which other products they used.

Lots more research is needed to establish how these chemicals get into our bodies and what they do once they get there. Many of the chemical constituents have been found in rivers, fish and water mammals and there is little doubt they are also entering human tissues.

The human breast becomes a sink for these compounds because it contains a lot of fat and these chemicals like to lodge in the fat.

There is no proven causal link between personal care products and the development of breast cancer but it definitely needs further investigation.

The good news is that if we CAN establish a link, prevention could finally become a reality.

All we have to do is stop using them.

Go to The Paraben Free Beauty Expert website at parabenfreeexpert.blogspot.com

www.thesun.co.uk - The Sun - 19.01.2012



Ungeschminkt – Die schmutzige Welt der Kosmetik

Ein Film von Inge Altemeier und Steffen Weber

Die Kosmetikindustrie verspricht ewige Jugend und Schönheit. Der Markt wird überschwemmt mit immer neuen Anti-Aging-Cremes, Peelings und verführerischen Düften. Doch kaum einer weiß: Viele Menschen erkranken durch das skrupellose Milliardengeschäft mit der Schönheit.

Viele greifen deshalb zu Naturkosmetika. Das Angebot wächst von Jahr zu Jahr. Doch was steckt tatsächlich in Naturkosmetik? die story macht sich auf die Suche und findet Menschen, die durch Schminke nicht jünger und schöner, sondern krank und berufsunfähig geworden sind und forscht nach den Ursachen.

Verbraucherschützer sind überfordert: Rund 8.500 verschiedene Inhaltsstoffe können in kosmetischen Produkten stecken, und viele wurden noch nicht ausreichend erforscht. Häufig verbergen sich in Kosmetika Gifte, die unfruchtbar machen und sogar Krebs auslösen können. Besonders fatal: Gerade in Kinderkosmetik aus China werden häufig giftige Chemikalien gefunden.

Die Autoren reisen für die story in die schmutzige Welt der Schönheit und des Etikettenschwindels. Sie deckt unter anderem in Indien Kinderarbeit bei der Henna-Produktion auf und erfährt in China, dass für Lippenstifte dieselben Chemikalien wie für Wandfarben eingesetzt werden.

WDR.de -> die story  Sendung vom 12. Dezember 2011


The truth about natural, organic and fairtrade product claims

Marketing claims for natural and organic cosmetic products do not always live up to expectations, a fact that has been underlined by formulation consultant Judi Beerling at yesterday’s Sustainable Cosmetics Summit.

In a presentation, entitled ‘Marketing Claims: Natural & Organic Cosmetics Brand Assessment', Beerling took a look at the some of the leading products on the European market to assess formulation content against companies’ claims.

The aim of the presentation was to discover how the amount of synthetic ingredients used in formulations compares with the amount of natural, organic and fairtrade ingredients, contrasting this with the positioning on the market.

Focusing in on synthetic ingredients, in contrast to claims

In particular, the presentation looked at the amount of synthetic ingredients that are largely prohibited by natural and organic certification bodies, including parabens and a range of preservatives, especially formaldehyde donor preservatives.

Beerling chose to highlight products from six different brands – L’Occitane, Naked, Boots, Weleda, Johnson & Johnson, Boots and Weleda – all with quite different positioning and marketing claims.

Each of the products were given a score from 1 to 10 – 1 being almost totally synthetic and 10 being the highest content of certified natural ingredients - to assess to what degree the company’s claims were contrasted by the formulation content. Some of the results were eye-opening.

L'Occitane shows big contrast between standard and organic ranges

The first case study was Occitane’s Standard Range Hand Cream, which, although containing natural ingredients such as beeswax, coconut and lavender oil, also contained a high percentage of synthetics such as tetrasodium EDTA and propylene glycol. Beerling awarded this product a score of 2.

In contrast, Occitane’s organic range Lavender Harvest Hand Cream was also assessed. Certified by Ecocert, the formulation was found to have a 99.69 per cent natural content, while 29.57 per cent of the formulation was found to be organic, giving it a score of 8.5.

The Naked brand Jojoba Gentle Exfoliating Face Wash is marketed with a 97 per cent natural content claim. However, Beerling stated that ingredients listed on the label such as bisabolol EDTA, acrylates copolymer and magnesium nitrate were contrary to this claim, giving the product a score of just 2.

Beerling did point out that this product was originally sold online but is currently not listed, which may fall in line with the company’s current move to reformulate some of its products, something that is also a marked trend throughout the category.

Johnson & Johnson stumbles on inclusion of unacceptable synthetics

Falling in line with moves by the big players to get in on the naturals act, J&J has also launched a naturals baby range. In line with this, Beerling chose to assess the formulation of Johnson’s Natural Head-To-Toe Foaming Baby Wash.

Although the formulation was found to have a number of natural ingredients, Beerling felt that the use of cetylhdroxyethyl cellulose and sodium coco sulphate were not acceptable ingredients for a product targeting this category, which bought the score down to 5.

Boots Extracts Fairtrade Brazil Nut Body Butter was found to have one of the highest synthetic contents of all the products that were assessed. Marketed on the strength of its one organic fairtrade ingredient – brazil nut oil – it also had a long list of synthetics that included dimethicone and dipropylene, giving it a ‘range score max of 2 in our assessment’.

On the other hand, one of the best rated products was Weleda’s Moisture Cream For Men, which is NaTrue/BDIHcertified to have a minimum 70 per cent of naturally derived organic ingredients, giving it a score of 8.

No regulation of natural term, but awareness is driving change

Drawing attention to the wide disparity in marketing claims and actual formulation content, Beerling underlined the fact that there is still no regulation of the natural term for cosmetic and personal care products.

“However, the tide is beginning to turn as accepted industry norms are emerging, consumers are increasingly questioning ingredients and there is growing recognition and trust of certification logos,” said Beerling.

“Likewise, there is also an increasing trend towards reformulation of products to get closer to the standards, which also suggests that industry is doing its part, too.”


Natürlich schön

Unsere Haut wird mit echten Pflanzenöl-Cremes besonders gut gepflegt

Diese Kosmetik verzichtet im Gegensatz zu konventionellen Produkten auf Mineral- und Silikonöle

Strahlend schön sollte meine Haut sein. Stattdessen blühten kleine rote Pickel auf meiner Stirn. Ich war 14 Jahre alt und total verzweifelt. Die Waschgele und Cremes die ich benutzte, stellten mich nicht zufrieden, die Pickel waren immer noch da. In der Fernsehsendung "Hobbythek" erklärte mir Jean Pütz, dass Teebaumöl sehr gut gegen pickelige Haut sei. Ich hatte nichts zu verlieren und ließ mich auf dieses Experiment ein. Das neue ätherische Öl träufelte ich in Jogurt und trug diese Mischung als Maske auf mein Gesicht auf. In akuten Fällen tupfte ich das Öl pur auf den Pickel. Es wirkte, nach ein paar Wochen wurde mein Hautbild klarer.

Meine Neugier für selbstgemachte Kosmetik war geweckt. "Das große Buch der Naturkosmetik" wurde meine Lieblingslektüre. Geschrieben hat es die Journalistin und Schriftstellerin Stephanie Faber. Ab den 70er Jahren hat sie verschiedene Bücher über natürliche Kosmetik veröffentlicht, die zu Bestsellern wurden. Mit ihren Rezepten rührte ich Cremes gegen unreine Haut zusammen.

Während die Hauptbestandteile von den Cremes, die Stephanie Faber entwickelte, Pflanzenöle, Bienenwachs, Kakaobutter, Wollfett und Rosenblütenwasser waren, enthalten heutige Naturkosmetika Aloe Vera, Granatapfelsamenöl, Extrakte aus der Cashewnuss oder Hyaluronsäure.

Heute ist die Bereitschaft, ein natürliches Kosmetikprodukt in den Einkaufswagen zu legen, gestiegen. Nach Angaben einer Studie der Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung kauft ein Fünftel aller Deutschen mittlerweile Naturkosmetik, und täglich werden es mehr. Im Jahr 2009 gaben die Verbraucher in Deutschland laut Branchenexperte "Naturkosmetik Konzepte" rund 672 Millionen Euro für natürliche Kosmetik aus - fast 10 Prozent mehr als 2008.

Der Hauptunterschied zur konventionellen Kosmetik ist, dass Naturkosmetik auf synthetische Konservierungsstoffe, Mineral- und Silikonöle verzichtet. Das am häufigsten verwendete Mineralöl ist Paraffinum Liquidum. Es wird durch Destillation aus Erdöl gewonnen und ist im Gegensatz zu Pflanzenölen sehr preiswert.

Für die Schönheitsmedizinerin Dr. Barbara Sturm aus Düsseldorf haben Mineralöle in einer Creme nichts zu suchen, "weil sie wie ein Film auf der Haut liegen und ihr Feuchtigkeit entziehen. Dadurch werden die eigenen Regulierungsmechanismen der Haut gestört." Die Haut wird trockener, woraufhin man sich immer wieder das Gesicht mit der Creme eincremt, was aber langfristig nicht zu einer Verbesserung führt. Barbara Sturm sieht einen klaren Zusammenhang zwischen dem jahrelangen Verwenden von Cremes mit Mineralölen und Duftstoffen und empfindlicher Haut. "Ich beobachte bei meinen Patientinnen, dass ihre Haut schuppt. Durch verstopfte Talgdrüsen, kommt es zu Mitessern, Pickeln und letztendlich zu vergrößerten Poren." Das Ziel einer richtigen Gesichtspflege sei es, dass die Haut auch ohne Creme nicht spannt, und dass die Talgproduktion von selbst funktioniert. Sturm rät Frauen mit gereizter Haut, ihr Gesicht "nicht immer mit Make-up zu verdecken. Lassen Sie Ihre Haut auch mal atmen." Abends sollte nach Empfehlung der Ärztin das Gesicht mit einem milden Reinigungsschaum gründlich gereinigt werden und mit einer reichhaltigen Creme ohne Mineralöle, Duftstoffe und wenig Konservierungsstoffen gepflegt werden. "Wenn eine Creme 24 Monate haltbar ist, dann lassen Sie die Finger davon, weil sie zu viele Konservierungsstoffe enthält, die die Haut reizen können", sagt Sturm. Die Haut ist unser größtes Organ und sie nimmt bestimmte Stoffe auf. Seien Sie deswegen aufmerksam und schauen auf die Inhaltsstoffe ihrer Creme.

Autor: Pinar Abut - Welt Online.de - 07.11.2011